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Archive for the ‘Insulation & Moisture, Air & Pest Barriers’ Category

EPA To Examine Health Concerns Over Two Spray Foam Chemicals

Tuesday, April 19th, 2011

The Environmental Protection Agency intends to study whether it needs to address potential health risks of two chemicals found in spray polyurethane foam and used in compounds that seal concrete and finish floors.

The agency said last week it will collect data regarding methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) and toluene diisocyanate (TDI) and conduct exposure monitoring to help it decide whether it should write rules involving the two products in their uncured form.

Diisocyanates are used to make polyurethane polymers, such as foam mattresses or bowling balls, which consist of fully reacted, or “cured,” polymers. The adhesives, coatings, and spray foam mentioned are uncured and react while in use, making them harmful during exposure.

Diisocyanates can cause severe skin and breathing ailments in people who have been repeatedly exposed to them. The chemicals are also known to cause work-related asthma and, in rare cases, fatal breathing reactions. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OHSA) regulates workplace exposures through permissible exposure limits. While there are a number of guidelines and information for professional contractors who work with the chemicals, there is little in the way of guidelines for customers and non-professional people who may be exposed. The EPA will look to consider the risks for consumers exposed to the chemicals in their various forms.

“There has been an increase in recent years in promoting the use of foams and sealants by do-it-yourself energy-conscious homeowners and many people may now be unknowingly exposed to risks from these chemicals,” said Steve Owens, assistant administrator for EPA’s Office of Chemical Safety and Pollution Prevention.

This article was originally posted on ProSales Online.

Knauf Agrees to Fix 300 Houses

Friday, October 29th, 2010

Under pressure from presiding Federal Judge Eldon Fallon, lawyers for homeowners and for Chinese drywall supplier Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin have agreed to a preliminary settlement of 300 cases of houses contaminated by the defective product. Plaintiffs’ attorneys announced the settlement in a press release October 14 (“Judge Announces Breakthrough Settlement in Chinese Drywall Litigation”). The full text of the settlement agreement is posted at the website of the United States District Court for the Eastern District of Louisiana (“Settlement Agreement for the Demonstration Remediation of Homes with KPT Drywall”).

Under the agreement, crews will remediate 300 homes built with 95% or more Knauf drywall, applying the protocol specified by Judge Fallon in his decisions in earlier bellwether trials held to establish the basic facts of Chinese drywall. In a decision involving Chinese firm Taishan Gypsum Ltd, reported by the Sarasota Herald Tribune on April 9, Fallon had specified a complete replacement not just of the drywall itself, but of any other affected components of the home (“Sweeping drywall ruling finds for homeowners,” by Aaron Kessler).

Under the terms of the October settlement, this same drastic remedy will be applied to 300 houses, with the ultimate goal being to develop procedures suitable for every house contaminated by the Knauf product, reports the Herald Tribune (“A first step in eliminating Chinese drywall,” by Aaron Kessler). “The pilot program … runs lockstep with remediation guidelines established by Fallon in a series of decisions handed down this year,” the paper reports. “They call for essentially gutting the home and rebuilding it to its former condition: replacing all drywall, wiring, copper pipes, the air-conditioning system, fire safety equipment and all damaged fixtures.” Knauf appears to have dropped its earlier efforts to hold out for a less extensive repair job. In addition, the company has agreed to pay for temporary lodging for affected residents, as well as for damage to personal property inside the homes.

But as the Herald Tribune reports, questions remain about how the program can be expanded to include homeowners whose situations vary from the 300 relatively simple cases chosen for the pilot program (“Knauf drywall deal doesn’t take care of everyone yet,” by Aaron Kessler). “For example,” writes the paper, “what happens to people who have remediated their own homes, at considerable expense, with the hope of recouping those costs through the legal process?” Questions also remain about how Knauf will address empty or abandoned houses, whose owners have left because of the unpleasant smell, irritation, or health concerns. In many cases, particularly in economically troubled Florida, homes are subject to foreclosure (sometimes brought on because owners could not afford to pay a mortgage on an empty house, along with the rent on their emergency dwelling.)

And, the paper points out, hundreds, possibly thousands, of houses have a mix of Knauf drywall and some other brand — perhaps domestic, perhaps from another Chinese company. Those houses aren’t included in the pilot program, but any broader program will have to include them in order to fully address the damage created by the faulty material.

This article first posted to coastalcontractor.net.

Air Sealing Best Practices

Friday, October 1st, 2010

This guide provides information to contractors and homeowners to identify ways to seal unwanted air leaks in homes, while ensuring healthy levels of ventilation and avoiding indoor air pollution.

Credit: courtesy U.S. Department of Energy

The 2009 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) and the 2009 International Residential Code (IRC) have several new mandatory requirements for air sealing in new construction and additions.

Note that these codes apply to new construction where adopted by local jurisdictions. In general, these requirements do notapply to retrofit projects unless the project adds living space to the building or changes the building’s energy load. The existing, unaltered portions of the structure are not required to comply with all of the requirements of the 2009 IECC or IRC.

However, any remodeling work that intends to achieve increased levels of building performance should address air sealing — a high-value way to increase efficiency in existing homes.

New Guidelines

The U.S. Department of Energy’s Building America program has recently developed an air sealing guide for both contractors and consumers. The guide is intended to help contractors explain the value of air sealing to their customers, address important issues associated with air sealing (including ventilation requirements), and to provide technical guidance on key areas that are often difficult to address.

The following checklist and graphic are from Volume 10 in the Building America Best Practices Series“Retrofit Techniques & Technologies: Air Sealing: A Guide for Contractors to Share with Homeowners,”available here [PDF].

Air Sealing List

Air Barrier Completion Guidelines

1. Air barrier and thermal barrier alignment: Air barrier is in alignment with the thermal barrier (insulation).

2. Attic air sealing: Top plates and wall-to-ceiling connections are sealed.

3. Attic kneewalls: Air barrier is installed at the insulated boundary (kneewall transition or roof, as appropriate).

4. Duct shaft/piping shaft and penetrations: Openings from attic to conditioned space are sealed.

5. Dropped ceiling/soffit: Air barrier is fully aligned with insulation; all gaps are fully sealed.

6. Staircase framing at exterior wall/attic: Air barrier is fully aligned with insulation; all gaps are fully sealed.

7. Porch roof: Air barrier is installed at the intersection of the porch roof and exterior wall.

8. Flue or chimney shaft: Opening around flue is closed with flashing and any remaining gaps are sealed with fire-rated caulk or sealant.

9. Attic access/pull-down stair: Attic access panel or drop-down stair is fully gasketed for an air-tight fit.

10. Recessed lighting: Fixtures are provided with air-tight assembly or covering.

11. Ducts: All ducts should be sealed, especially in attics, vented crawlspaces, and rim areas.

12. Whole-house fan penetration at attic: An insulated cover is provided that is gasketed or sealed to the opening from either the attic side or ceiling side of the fan.

13. Exterior walls: Service penetrations are sealed and air sealing is in place behind or around shower/tub enclosures, electrical boxes, switches, and outlets on exterior walls.

14. Fireplace wall: Air sealing is completed in framed shaft behind the fireplace or at fireplace surround.

15. Garage/living space walls: Air sealing is completed between garage and living space. Pass-through door is weather stripped.

16. Cantilevered floor: Cantilevered floors are air sealed and insulated at perimeter or joist transition.

17. Rim joists, sill plate, foundation, and floor: Rim joists are insulated and include an air barrier. Junction of foundation and sill plate is sealed. Penetrations through the bottom plate are sealed. All leaks at foundations, floor joists, and floor penetrations are sealed. Exposed earth in crawlspace is covered with Class I vapor retarder overlapped and taped at seams.

18. Windows and doors: Space between window/door jambs and framing is sealed.

19. Common walls between attached dwelling units: The gap between a gypsum shaft wall (i.e., common wall) and the structural framing between units is sealed.

—The Department of Energy seeks to offer comprehensive, whole-house technical information to the industry and consumers to encourage energy-efficient remodeling and retrofit practices. Click here for a variety of resources, including case studies of successful retrofits in all climate zones, energy code and tax incentive information, and more.

7 Construction Tips for Making It Tight, Building It Right

Tuesday, September 28th, 2010

An airtight home can cut a homeowner’s heating and cooling bills, make a house more comfortable, and reduce a family’s carbon footprint—if that buttoned-up envelope is part of an energy-efficient construction strategy that treats the building as a system whose parts depend on each other.

Here are seven ways you can avoid careening off course in a quest to make a home airtight and still run right.

applying spray foam insulation
1. Don’t break the barrier. Drywall is a fine air barrier over large, flat surfaces like walls, floors, and a standard ceiling. But when the architecture involves dropped ceilings or soffits, cantilevers, or a bonus room, the drywall juts out of alignment with the top plane of the wall or floor. That leaves a gaping space for hot, dirty attic air to creep into the walls.

Brian Coble, director of high-performance homes for Advanced Energy, a North Carolina nonprofit devoted to energy-efficient home building, calls these unprotected spaces “areas of high complexity” and advises builders to seal them off with sprayed-in foam. The same goes for trusses and knee walls that don’t have top or bottom plates—and therefore don’t boast the blocking components of dimensional lumber. The builder, notes Coble, should ensure that the house has a complete air barrier around the living space.

2. Ventilate right. Kitchen exhaust vents and bathroom fans—even powerful models—can’t cut it when it comes to exchanging bad air for good on a regular basis in a tightly sealed residence. That kind of spot ventilation—vented to the outdoors and never into the attic—is important for releasing cooking odors, steamy humidity, and cigarette smoke from indoor air, but a whole-house mechanical ventilator like a heat- or energy-recovery ventilator is the best device to prevent an airborne buildup of mildew, mold, and chemicals like volatile organic compounds and formaldehyde. Building scientists recommend that homes be ventilated to meet ASHRAE Standard 62.2 through a combination of spot and whole-house devices.

duct work
3. The devil is in the ductwork. A surefire way to know if a house has a leaky duct system, quips Coble, is if it has any duct system. Indeed, the DOE estimates that 20% of a home’s air is lost through the ductwork—even in brand-new buildings. It’s such a waste that utility companies are offering to pay homeowners to have theirs sealed. And duct tape isn’t sturdy enough to keep dust- and allergen-filled air from blowing through seams, cracks, and joints in the duct system, says Coble, who recommends brushing on bucket mastic instead.

4. Insulation isn’t enough. Foam insulation doubles as an air barrier, but fiberglass and cellulose insulation—useful for slowing down heat transfer—allow air to leak through them and should be used in conjunction with, but—not instead of,— an air barrier. Plus, advises Todd Russo, owner of REEis, a home performance and energy auditing specialist in Scottsdale, Ariz., improperly installed insulation doesn’t do its job. He points to voids in coverage, misalignments, and gaps between the insulation and the air barrier as common and costly gaffes, and notes that a 5% failure in the insulation can cut its effectiveness in half. “Insulation is our No. 1 construction defect, and it’s not always intentional,” says Russo, who advises builders to spend more time training installers.

applying spray foam insulation5. Ease the pressure. It used to be that every room had its own air supply and return, so if the homeowner closed a door, the air remained comfortable. Most dwellings today, though, are built with a central return, usually in a hallway. So closing a door cuts the room’s supply off from the return, and causes the space to become pressurized—which can force the supply to replenish the room with stale, dirty air rather than clean air from a controlled source.

A semi-quick fix: Balance the pressure by installing a dedicated return in every room with a door; a transfer grill above the doorway; or a jump-over duct that allows the air to flow over the door and into the hall even when the door is closed.

6. Sweat the small stuff. It seems like a no-brainer to seal penetrations where nails, plumbing pipes, or cables have pierced the roof and walls, but Russo says those small holes are often left open, simply because it’s nobody’s job to fill them.

“The framer frames, the stucco guy puts the stucco wrap around it, the plumber runs the pipes, and nobody goes around to see what needs sealing,” he says. Seattle builder Jon Alexander, owner of Sunshine Construction, agrees. “Most builders do very little sealing,” he says.

applying spray foam insulation7. Test and retest. Alexander does a blower-door test after framing but before insulating, and another one at the end of the job. As the door-mounted fan pulls air out of the house, it lowers the indoor air pressure so much that higher-pressure outdoor air whooshes in though unsealed cracks. A smoke pencil reveals where the leaks are.

“Sometimes we see a really big leak that we didn’t know about, like a hole in the ceiling or in a closet,” notes Alexander.

Russo says it costs a few hundred dollars to hire an energy consultant to do the test and advise you about ways to make the building more efficient by considering how insulation, the size of the HVAC system, and even the shades on windows work together. “You can build the tightest home on the planet, but if you do a handful of other things wrong, the performance won’t be good,” he says. –Sharon O’Malley is a contributing editor to Building Products magazine and ebuild.com.

‘Cash for Caulkers’ Would Provide Rebates for Energy-Efficient Building Products, Retrofits

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

President Obama announced March 2 details on “Homestar,” a Cash for Clunkers-like rebate program designed to entice Americans to make their houses more energy efficient. The administration hopes the incentives will boost demand for building products such as insulation, efficient windows, and roofing in the same way car sales skyrocketed last year when consumers were offered rebates for trading in their gas-guzzling autos for more fuel-friendly models.

As outlined in the proposal, dubbed “Cash for Caulkers,” homeowners could be eligible for up to $3,000 in point-of-sale rebates for purchases of efficient product upgrades or whole-house audits/retrofits. Energy efficiency contractors and suppliers would market the rebates, provide them directly to consumers, and then be reimbursed by the federal government.

Under the first level of rebates, Silver Star, consumers would be eligible for up to $1,500 for a variety of home upgrades, including adding insulation, sealing leaky ducts, and replacing inefficient water heaters, HVAC units, windows, roofing, and doors. There would be a maximum rebate of $3,000 per home.

The more comprehensive Gold Star level would provide a $3,000 rebate to consumers for a whole-house energy audit and subsequent retrofit tailored to achieve a 20% energy savings. Additional rebates would be available for savings above 20%.

Administration officials are still working with Congress on details, including how long the program will run, but the White House expects Homestar to create “tens of thousands” of jobs, cut energy bills for families by $200 to $500 per year, and reduce the nation’s dependence on oil.

In a statement, the NAHB acknowledged the program’s economic possibilities: “This has the potential to be a real shot in the arm for the home building industry,” said association chairman Bob Jones. “It will help put America back to work, and it will help families save on monthly energy bills.”

Masco Home Services president Larry Laseter, one of three manufacturers who joined Obama at the event, urged Congress to approve the program. “We applaud the efforts of the administration to introduce a jobs creations program that is truly a win-win-win,” said Laseter. “The Homestar program will put our nation’s skilled construction force back to work, benefit homeowners through comfort and energy-efficient improvements to their existing homes, and result in long term energy efficiency gains.”

The National Lumber and Building Material Dealers Association was more cautious, telling Building Products’ sister publication ProSales it will be working closely with the White House, the DOE, and Congress to help ensure the program does not put small and large independent dealers at a disadvantage versus big-box retailers. The NAHB also expressed that equal access for all will be essential to the program’s success.

Click here for full details of the Homestar program. –Jennifer Goodman

Environmental Building News Decries Polystyrene Insulation

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009
alexwilson_bac_300dpi

Alex Wilson

In the article “Polystyrene Insulation: Does It Belong in a Green Building?” Environmental Building News executive editor Alex Wilson says there’s enough health and environmental evidence to suggest that the answer is “No.”

“All insulation materials are green on one level because they play a huge role in reducing building energy consumption,” Wilson says, but adds that polystyrene insulation may not be the best choice.

Wilson, a long-time green building advocate and a nominee for the 2009 Hanley Award for Vision and Leadership in Sustainable Housing, describes various issues with polystyrene insulation and recommends alternatives be used when doing so will not compromise a building’s energy performance.

The editor of the well-regarded EBN monthly newsletter says that polystyrene is produced from toxic chemicals–benzene, which is a known human carcinogen, and styrene, which is considered an endocrine disruptor, asthma inducer, and possible carcinogen. In addition, all polystyrene building insulation–extruded (XPS) and expanded (EPS)–contains the brominated flame retardant HBCD, which European agencies have labeled an organic pollutant and a bioaccumulative toxin. The EBN article says that despite significant effort, manufacturers have been unable to find a flame-retardant substitute.

“Polystyrene is the least green of common insulation materials,” Wilson writes in the article, which outlines alternative materials. He recommends rigid mineral wool, which he says performs well on exterior foundation walls and is being used beneath concrete slabs in Europe.

 “Polystyrene Insulation: Does it Belong in a Green Building?” was published in the August 2009 issue of Environmental Building News. You must be an EBN subscriber to read the entire story at www.buildinggreen.com.
–Jean Dimeo

Roxul Brings Its Stone Wool Insulation to U.S.

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009

roxul_installRepresentatives from insulation manufacturer Roxul, the North American arm of Denmark-based Rockwool International, visited our offices June 2 to announce the availability of Safe’n’Sound and ComfortBatt stone wool products in the U.S. market.

Previously available only in Canada, Safe’n’Sound (interior walls) and ComfortBatt (exterior walls) are made with stone wool, a combination of basalt rock and recycled slag. Both are fire resistant and non-combustible, able to withstand temperatures up to 2,150 degrees F, the manufacturer claims. The material also does not absorb water or hold moisture, so it will not rot, corrode, or contribute to bacteria growth, according to the company. In addition, the material’s density and multi-directional structure contribute to sound absorption and, for ComfortBatt, R-values of R-15 in 2×4 construction and R-23 in 2×6 construction.

roxul_cuttingFinally, the material cuts easily with a serrated blade (we tried it ourselves), so it’s easy to install around electrical boxes, plumbing, wires, and other obstructions.

For more information, visit www.roxul.com; the site will relaunch June 15 with new videos showcasing the insulation’s fire resistance and other properties. –Katy Tomasulo